Rainbows are free. So, of course, are blazing red sunsets, plumeria-scented trade breezes, golden sand, sensuously warm water and nodding coconut palms. You can spend a prince's ransom enjoying these things in Poipu - or anywhere else in Hawaii - but you don't have to. It's a point well worth remembering in this season of economic nail-biting. We'll show you how to save money - sometimes a lot of money - on all the sensory elements of a classic Hawaiian vacation.
Justly famed for its broad beach park on Kauai's South Shore, Poipu offers plenty of high style, but low-cost options exist for those who prefer their paradise a little more low key. What follows are my favorite discoveries at both ends of the price spectrum.
Just keep in mind that developers the area are kicking up a lot of red dirt (see "New homes and hotel," Page D8), so don't wait too long to kick back if you'd prefer to enjoy these pleasures in relative privacy.
Island cuisine
High style: The restaurants in Poipu's resort hotels and condo communities rely on their surroundings rather than on quality to jack up prices. But the independently operated Beach House on Lawai Road routinely rates as Kauai's top restaurant and one of the best in the state. Unusual in its ability to pair a superb view with superior food (much of it locally grown or fresh-caught), the dinner-only establishment frequently books up well in advance - especially for sunset dining - so call before you go to the Garden Isle, and expect to pay $50-$60 per person for a three-course meal, excluding tax, tip and beverages.
Low key: Giovanni's Shrimp Truck on Oahu's North Shore may have spawned a bevy of nearby imitators, but Savage Shrimp at the intersection of Lawai and Ho'onani roads is the only one of its kind on Kauai. I was glad to learn recently that the owner, who simply goes by Susan, has vowed she won't let the major construction zone across the street drive her away. Susan serves two kinds of shrimp: a very garlicky scampi and a slightly less garlicky Brazilian style with coconut milk, both served over rice, for $10.
The truck's open from about 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. most days, or until she runs out of shrimp. (If you can see her cooking through the bamboo-mat-framed window, go for it). There's one table and four plastic chairs, shaded by a tree but not protected from road noise, so you may want to order your shrimp plate to go, with a can of Pass-O-Guava soda (to cut the garlic aftertaste), and enjoy a picnic at the beach. Don't forget napkins - lots of napkins - since the shrimp come with shells on.
Since that only covers lunch (and shrimp eaters), keep in mind the Kalaheo Cafe for breakfast and lunch, about a 10-minute drive to its mauka (toward the mountains) location along the main highway. Carb lovers, you have your choice of white or brown rice, or hash browns or cafe fries, as well as several kinds of toast, with a wide variety of egg dishes; most dishes, including sandwiches, are well under $10.
The cafe is across the street from Brick Oven Pizza, a bustling dinner spot with pretty good pizza, but we prefer to cruise the counters of the Kukuiula Market back in Poipu for homemade items like ahi poke (marinated tuna) and mochi (pounded rice) desserts, along with fresh fish to grill. And when we've missed the weekly farmers market in Koloa, the roadside stand off Ala Kinoiki (the bypass road) offers another chance at sweet white corn, dark-skinned oranges and ripe papaya. .......
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